nesdev.org

Man, Japan has been having some shitty luck

Hope all the japanese members are alright.

Eurocircuits in Europe is pretty good, but prepare to pay some $$$.

There is no fuse on the famicom, only super famicom. Are you sure you're measuring the output of the 7805? If it's outputting 12V it's very likely other parts of the circuit are damaged. But I think you might be measuring the input. As far as the power brick outputting 13V, this is normal, power bri...

The pal snes power brick outputs AC, this is bad(tm). A famicom requires DC. But also the plug is center negative. I'm suprised it even worked after you tried the snes power plug. edit: Forgot to give more advice. Things you can check: check if you're getting 5V out of the 7805 regulator, the pinout...

DRW: dude, it's Tepples. Just let it go man.

Looks like your nes is working completely fine. The blue bar on the left is just an option games can turn on to blank the left side. The blue color bleed is probably just your tv not handeling the nes' video very well. Lcds in general tend to not interpret nes video very well. In particular they ten...

^
I'm sad to hear people feel this way. However while there is a lot of hardware talk going on, I never felt like software talk specifically was discouraged. Thing is, people have to bring it up if they want to talk about it!

One way you could do it is to cut power to the pins one by one, and measure between power and ground with a multimeter. Do not power it up like this. If a chip has been verified to not be the culprit you can use some solder to rebridge the pins on the chip. Downside is that this is a bit of a destru...

Another part you might want to check that fails often is the bridge rectifier. I believe it resides in the RF modulator which might be why you didn't notice it getting hot. edit: found a pic, its the part labeled D4 (upside down) http://i48.tinypic.com/4tprmr.jpg edit2: just thinking some more, but ...

A very tedious but workable method to find a short is to measure the resistance at different parts of the board (on the chips). If you meter is accurate enough and has enough resolution the closer you get to the short the lower the resistance gets. edit: I dont recommend disconnecting the power/grou...

If you had a scope or a logic probe you could see if the adress/data lines are at least doing something (and wether the ppu is receiving them, the ram is receiving them etc). Since you don't seem to have one, you could try desoldering the cpu/ppu/ram and swapping them to a known working unit. Don't ...

Gray screen with no audio is most likely your cpu not running for some reason. There's several reasons why this could be. The most obvious is of course a bad connector, but it seems you have tried a reasonable amount of things to fix that. Sadly it's hard to say why your cpu isn't running, it could ...

EDIT: And I just realized I connected Y0 to /CS instead of Y1. I keep forgetting the first pin is VCC and not an output pin. If you are, ignore this comment. But if you're not using schematic capture to wire everything up first, I strongly recommend doing that on future projects. It'll help prevent...

If CR1 is a resonator, you're grounding out one pin. It won't work that way.

Or to look at it in other terms, if they want to advertise...maybe they should pay the host of the message board. If taken too far, that could lead to an outcome I would find undesirable, such as only donors being allowed to announce new projects in Homebrew Projects. If the "recent project&qu...