nesdev.org

All around the globe, the remaining thousand or so VS. Duck Hunt arcade board are breathing a sigh of relief knowing that their PPU won't be violently extracted anymore

While I still find TSOP easier and cheaper than using 4 EPROM per game, I find your design very clever and interesting! Must have been hard to line up everything perfectly like that.

Oh I tought it wouldn't fit, that's cool. I guess it's useful for people making hack of the game eventough testing on bsnes should be pretty accurate too. How much will you sell them for out of curiosity?

It's interesting but I don't really see the purpose of it. Is there a hack of Yoshi's island so good that people want to do this? Also the fact that it doesn't fit in the cart shell once installed kind of kill it for me.

No prob nocash, glad I could help. As for MAD-2, ff I could find a cart with it I would be able to extract the chip and resolder it after without damage.

Lol, Late much? Check the date this was posted.

Did the additional test and updated the files with new result.

Result: MAD-1 Truth table

At quick glance it look like the table are the same as before for Vbat=3.3v/VCC=5V and Vbat=5v/VCC3=v seem similar as when VCC is few less than 5V.

Yes I'm still here! Sorry I was so busy and forgot to do the test. I'll try to get to it within the next 2 days. Too bad I don't have any DSP game though. I would buy a cart to get a MAD2 if there was a sure way of knowing which cart had one.

There's threads filled with information about that kind of issue on the board already.

I'll try to do the 2 voltage thing tomorrow.

Ok, new test were made and some interesting result were found. To aid me in doing the various test, I decided it would be time well invested to build a new dumper with jumper for the various setting and 2 voltage selection. http://www.dbwbp.com/img/MAD_DUMPER_FRONT.JPG http://www.dbwbp.com/img/MAD_D...

Yeah, I'm still motivated. Its rare I can help document stuff like that. I do have a weird MAD-1 by Texas Instruments, it's id is 5BD263K with the TI logo and then it's written Nintendo MAD-1 underneath. Edit: Lol, I had like 2 revision of that laying around on old dev carts pcb that were collecting...

> Can you try wiring VCC and VBat to SAME voltage, too? Either both 3V, or both 5V. The latter one didn't destroy my chip, and the PC parallel port might be a bit happier with 5V than with 3V. > You asked for the chip id , here they are: MAD-1: BU2230 Same as mine, then we have double-checked the &...

You asked for the chip id , here they are: MAD-1: BU2230 416 139 MAD-1 A: BU2230A 551 120 MAD-R: BU2220 317 171a About the Vbat test, I am not sure if I am doing something wrong but all I get is BAD line for everything with OUT 2 /SRAM set to high and all the other OUT to low. I included the log in ...

Ah sorry if there was a swapped pin, I had to rewire it midway because of a crap socket and must have made a mistake there. I'll definitely redump when I get home later and will do any other test you might need before shipping them to byuu. As for vbat, I can feed it what you want, doesn't have to b...