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electronics fluxes aren't acid based and thus corrosive. Not really true. Deoxidation of metal is a corrosive process. Even "No-clean" fluxes have been known to create issues when left on a board. True, rosin-core flux is usually pretty safe because it crystallizes at room temperature and...

Flux is used to achieve better solder flow and better mating between contacts by removing oxidation from the surface of the metal contacts and the solder. However, by its very nature it is corrosive, so it should always be cleaned off of your board after soldering. Solder wire that is labeled as ros...

One thing to keep in mind is that if you use a straight solid wire (like a paper clip, like I usually use), when you heat up the second side, it will likely melt the first side as well. I typically add solder to one side of the board, hold the wire with tweezers, then heat the solder, place the wire...

Definitely repairable. Like lidnariq said, scrape off the soldermask at either edge of the remaining trace using an exacto knife in order to expose the copper trace, then get a thin wire (I like to use paper clips or if I need thinner, I use the legs clipped off a resistor, since I tend to have a lo...

Your problem reminds my of one of my software professors whose freshman C++ labs basically consist of being given broken code that you have to fix (usually simple logic and syntax errors), then once you check it off, he or his TA's get to break it again. One of his favorite dirty tricks is to replac...

I wonder if the assembler has issues with Windows' newline format...

I'm not a big coffee fan myself, but I find that short of coffee, Mountain Dew provides the best caffeine bang for your buck, so that's my preferred method of ingestion

Yeah, it's nice to hear you're still working on this. I've been working on again/off again on a from-scratch repro board, and this will save me the trouble of having to buy a PICKit (I already have an AVR ISP).

Awesome news :) I got really excited when you first mentioned an AVR solution, then you dropped off the map for several months. I have several attiny13's sitting around that I have no use for currently (accidentally ordered 13's for a project that needed 85's), so this should be interesting. Can't w...

tepples wrote:

ferretingaround wrote:Got me thinking that a 16-bit version of the original Metroid, in the style of Super Metroid, would also be amazing (if unlikely to ever happen).

Would it look like Metroid Zero Mission?

You're welcome

The downside of batch PCB services like iTead is the long lead time. It easily takes a month to 6 weeks minimum before you get your order back. But their quality is excellent. Even though they allow traces down to 6mil, I'd suggest staying at 10 or greater. Also, I emailed them and they said that th...

Yeah, I'm fine open sourcing my library. It's a bit of a mess at the moment, so give me a bit to clean things up a little and I'll send it your way. I'd prefer if you didn't publish the library (mostly because it's a work in progress right now), but schematics can be published without including the ...

Yes, you are correct that the proper thickness is 1.2mm (I just measured one to confirm). Check out iTead Studios, they offer a 2-layer 10cmx10cm board for $22, no extra charge for 1.2mm thickness (thicknesses <1.0mm are reasonably cheap) http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping/im12041...

I'm actually looking into doing a bluetooth mod for the SNES for wireless controllers, and if I manage to get it working, one of my goals is to support bluetooth mice as well. However, the project is likely going to be a slow one (I have started it, but I'd like to keep enough of it undone to propos...

If the corrosion is unfixable, the board may be unusable as a donor as well. Try desoldering the mask ROM and cleaning up the pins with steel wool or something as best you can, then flux the crap out of them and resolder them back in. It's at least worth a shot. And if you still plan to use it as a ...