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no there is a difference between them in formJoe wrote:Yes, it's a clone. A real Mega Drive/Genesis would have the Sega logo silkscreened on the PCB and a few of the ICs. I've found some pictures here if you'd like to compare your clone to real Mega Drive hardware.
no I mean the original one is broken but I had bought a clone one that I'm using currently and I can't find the "1A" on this adapter but I really found it on the back of the console.Because it's broken
1.0 A = 1000 mA, so it'd be written where "500 mA" or "850 mA" would otherwise be. For example, my power supply for another console says "OUTPUT DC10V 850mA".ouso1999 wrote:but as u see what I described above..the adapter is 10V namely more than 7V , so how is it too weak?TmEE wrote:And what you experience is definitely too weak power supply. You need at least 1A (the more the merrier) and more than 7V (but less than 18V).
and where "1A" is written on the adapter?
Yes I got it sorry for my physicstepples wrote:1.0 A = 1000 mA, so it'd be written where "500 mA" or "850 mA" would otherwise be. For example, my power supply for another console says "OUTPUT DC10V 850mA".ouso1999 wrote:but as u see what I described above..the adapter is 10V namely more than 7V , so how is it too weak?TmEE wrote:And what you experience is definitely too weak power supply. You need at least 1A (the more the merrier) and more than 7V (but less than 18V).
and where "1A" is written on the adapter?
Go home seller u're drunk That should be enough voltage. Other people claim you need more current (but I don't know). Do you have a multimeter? If so, make sure that when you're playing, you see at least 7V going into the connector where you plugged the adapter into the Genesis.ouso1999 wrote:i'm using this ac adapter
input:220VAC 50HZ 14W
OUTPUT: 10V DC 850mA MAX
I meant these two:I don't know which place u mean?do u mean the two parts below the cartridge slot?What's written on the two parts in TO-126s in the big metal heatsinks to the left of the cartridge slot?)
First, you should make sure that it's the switch that's broken:Resest button doesn't work at all now even after pressing it several time.
On all the ICs. They're labeled "TA-07 9447", "TA-05 9446 1436258064", "TA-06 9444 1437395065C ", "MB84256-15LL 9019 M86", "LH0080B Z80B-CPU SHARP JAPAN 9238 1B", "MB84256-15L 8746 M69", "MC68000P10 4C91E DJQUA9450"My brother bought it for approx 17 years , but I maintain it and use it a little.
where is "1994" written?
no they're right cause I read the details on the back of the console and it says 1A.lidnariq wrote:That should be enough voltage. Other people claim you need more current (but I don't know). Do you have a multimeter? If so, make sure that when you're playing, you see at least 7V going into the connector where you plugged the adapter into the Genesis.
ok I'm gonna tell u what's written there , but r u sure there's something written on these two heatsinks?I meant these two
sorry again plz tell me what I should do in detail...should I connect them by wires?and I can't understand the areas that r marked in red..do u mean I should connect them with each other?First, you should make sure that it's the switch that's broken: Once you've gotten the genesis to meaningfully turn on, connect the two areas I've colored in yellow here, to make sure it resets. If it does, you can find another microswitch somewhere and get someone with a soldering iron to replace it.
Not on the metal; on the black part to the left. I'd guess one of them should be a 7805 or something, but I don't know what the other is. (If there's text covered by a screw, don't worry about it, it's not important)ouso1999 wrote:ok I'm gonna tell u what's written there , but r u sure there's something written on these two heatsinks?
Yes, temporarily. When connected, it should be equivalent to holding the reset button.should I connect them by wires?
Moving parts get old and fail. Fortunately tactile switches are one of the things that never change.it was working like charm till 2 years ago.
The seller sold you an adapter that can power a real Genesis 2 (my Genesis 2 is rated at 10V, 850mA) but not your clone.ouso1999 wrote:I told the seller to bring me Genesis Adapter , he brings me a weak one
the label on the console back says "1A"...so u recommend me buying what.. 1A or 1.2A?Joe wrote:The seller sold you an adapter that can power a real Genesis 2 (my Genesis 2 is rated at 10V, 850mA) but not your clone.ouso1999 wrote:I told the seller to bring me Genesis Adapter , he brings me a weak one
Since your clone system looks a lot like a Genesis 1, you probably need a 9V (or 10V) 1.2A adapter.
u mean higher whatever values?Joe wrote:1A might be enough, but higher is better.
Oh, sorry, that wasn't a fix! just a diagnostic. Anyway, I didn't mean permanently connect them, but temporarily. (You also only needed one of the two wires.) With the wire permanently attached, the genesis should permanently be being reset. You want to temporary and briefly connect them once the genesis starts playing a game and see if it reboots.ouso1999 wrote:concerning the reset button , I connected the left to right so what next?
[image]
I tried pressing it but nothing worked
How odd, they're both 7805s. Well, no matter.and u asked for the two black parts..written on them "MT or AT(or something like that) and beside it ML" and below them "7805A"
yes both have the same characters.and I'm gonna remove one of the wireslidnariq wrote:How odd, they're both 7805s. Well, no matter.
what if I don't have a multimeterlidnariq wrote:If you have a multimeter / continuity meter:
1) While the genesis is off, make sure A and B are not connected
2) While the genesis is off, see if pressing the button makes A and B connect
3) If both or neither: the problem is somewhere else
4) If only either one: the button is damaged.
4a) If only #1, use a multimeter or a wire to short A to B once a game is running
4b) If only #2, cut away or desolder and remove the button, then do the same test as above (on the holes the button was in)
...should I try 4a and 4b?