Famicom Player 2 on NES mod help

[dark_cerberus]

Hey guys,

Fairly new in the community and what all of you are doing is amazing. Just stunned by the crazy project have in mind.
Mine sound "simple" but for my level it's apparently not.

Ultimate goal is to make a player 2 from famicom fully functional on an European NES ( Mic included). BTW my player 2 controller is the original one with square bottons ( if it change something)
I read many topics online about it and so far what i see is the best option would be to use the ENIO EXP Board.
The best infos were given by Great Hierophant here: https://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php ... 15#p175200

1st phase: Make the famicom player 2 controller work like a regular nes controller ( of course without the pause/start/mic) [/color]

I looked at pinout for famicom P2 and nes here is what i done to connect it.

1: ground: red
2: clock: white / 5:+5v : brown
3: latch: yellow / 6: D3: ( mic but not connected) : blue
4: data : orange / 7: D4: none

as seen here: http://nintendoage.com/forum/messagevie ... did=127993 ( search: Player two pin out was even wonkier )

I tested it on double dragon 2 and the only thing that happen is that the P2 character is jumping when i plug the controller. If I wiggle the connector it punch and jump.
otherwise using the pad does not make my character move or anything.

So my 4 options are :
-My controller is dead ( but if there is a reaction it's unlikely)
-My connection are making some kind of short circuit ( i isolate with electrician tape each connection). also I just wrap the wire on the pine and did not solder them but it should make a connection anyway
-My pinout scheme is wrong ( most plausible option ).
- Anything specific at the famicom player 2 or the fact that it's a square version.

2nd phase: make the mic work probably with the enio exp board or even harwiering it to the board.

No thing tested so far but if someone has a solution I'm interested. Need to make my controller work first .

If you need pictures or anything let me know.

Thanks for you help, because it's been bugging me for a while now and i really want to tackle that damn project . And sorry for that long post i wanted to be super clear.

[ApolloBoy]

also I just wrap the wire on the pine and did not solder them

There's your problem.

[dark_cerberus]

Ok, duely noted, I'm not in electronic but I thought wrapping well the wire would do a temporary good job.
Thank will try it and come back with some results

[dark_cerberus]

Hey guys,

everything has been soldered and still no reaction. Only if I wiggle the data wire ( orange)
Anyone has an idea?

[rainwarrior]

Might be more prudent to get the circuit working on a solderless breadboard before you start soldering anything?

Having properly soldered connections isn't going to help anything if you don't have it built correctly. Though, if wiggling anything has an effect, that's a bad sign.

[dark_cerberus]

Hey
I hope you didn't think that i solder it on my NES btw .

Ok I assume that my controller work, since nes are really unbreakable, so i'm not wiggelign exactly just making the data wire go in and out to see if there is any reactions.
Can you explain me what do you mean by getting the circuit working?

Thanks

[Quietust]

Protip: wire nuts are your friend when you're testing out a circuit and don't have access to a solderless breadboard.

[rainwarrior]

Can you explain me what do you mean by getting the circuit working?

I mean you can do the best soldering job in the world, but it won't matter unless you've put the right wires together, you know? Trying to build something that works often involves trying wrong ideas first and figuring out why they failed until you realize what the right thing to do is.

Soldering first makes experimentation difficult.

I'm not saying you should try random stuff either, just that whatever your first idea is might be incomplete or otherwise flawed. I can't tell you from what you asked if your idea is correct so far, most of it looks fine but I don't know famicom controller wiring by colour, or if they're consistent between all models. I'd try to determine their function by following them to the board and seeing what they appear to do.

You did say "but not connected" about your mic vs the D3 input. You shouldn't be connecting it to D3. (It goes to D2 of controller 1.)

You'd get a lot more useful diagnostic of what's happening if you used some sort of controller test program that just shows your input directly instead of "Double Dragon 2".

[dark_cerberus]

Thanks for all your interesting inputs.
Unfortunately I don't have anything to test my input. I'm kind of looking for someone who wanted to do the same thing as I and could walk me threw.
But I will try if i could make my connection light an LED or something to see if electrics connections are working.

Thanks guys