NES Advantage padhacking help needed

SatoshiMatrix · Post by **SatoshiMatrix** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:12 am

hey guys, I need a bit of help.

I picked up a NES Advantage in pretty rough exterior condition and got to thinking that I'd like to padhack the pcb into a real arcade stick. Problem is, I don't know where to solder wires to on the traces. I've taken some detailed images if someone would be so kind as to edit them with markings of where to solder to.

In addition to the buttons, I'd also like to add in new pots and new switches for the turbo fire buttons if so please label the traces for everything. Thank you.

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Thanks.

infiniteneslives · Post by **infiniteneslives** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 12:37 pm

This is certainly an easy board to use for this project.

They pretty much already labeled everything for you but I tried to make it even more clear. See most commonly buttons go to ground meaning that one side of the button is the "signal" and the other side is "ground" so when you close the button the signal is pulled down to ground. This is how the d-pad and select start buttons work.

The directions are labeled UDLR: up, down, left, right in the bottom left. The select and start are clearly labeled as well.

Due to the turbo functions of A and B they don't "go to ground" like the other buttons. Your arcade buttons will simply have to go across the same signal traces as the originals did. That's why I gave you two taps in the image, where the second tap for the udlr sel srt is implied to be ground.

I don't know how to make the switches and pots any more clear than what's already on the board. The easiest way is to just desolder the original button/pot and wire your new ones up to the same spot. You could leave the originals in though and just tap off the same connection. At least when you tested and something didn't work you could reach in and try the original button and verify if the issue is with the board or your buttons.

SatoshiMatrix · Post by **SatoshiMatrix** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:10 pm

So then is the whole board common ground?

Post by **tepples** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:23 pm

Up, Down, Left, and Right appear to be common ground. A and B appear not to be because of the turbo function.

SatoshiMatrix · Post by **SatoshiMatrix** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:25 pm

so then what, do I solder to either side of B and A?

Post by **tepples** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:30 pm

Pretty much. It looks like A is J9 and J2, B is J8 and J1, and for Select and Start you may want to just solder to the top and bottom half of the contact pad.

infiniteneslives · Post by **infiniteneslives** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:34 pm

You basically solder to both sides of A and B. As I show in the picture

All the others you only need the one tap I drew. The other side of the switch needed to be connected to ground for udlr sel srt. That's why I only drew one tap for those. The second tap is ground.

SatoshiMatrix · Post by **SatoshiMatrix** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:39 pm

the next question may be obvious but how do I actually solder to the traces? I've tried doing this for some boards that solder absolutely will not stick to.

I know I need to shave down to the copper, but any tips to get the solder to stick without using flux?

infiniteneslives · Post by **infiniteneslives** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 1:52 pm

The only good solution is to use flux. It's as easy as cake if you use it, next to impossible without it. You can try to make use of the flux in the solder but is difficult at best.

But yes get down to copper. I use a rounded tip exacto knife but you could also use sandpaper.

Make sure you've tinned the tip of the wire you're attaching. tinning is to basically soak or coat the bare wire with solder. This again is easier if you apply flux to the bare stranded wire before attempting to melt the solder to it.

Basically you want to get solder on both contact points BEFORE you attempt to join them. If they already have solder on them it's super easy and only requires two hands to solder them together since you don't have to hold the solder.

The only "easy" option I see if you decide not to break down and buy flux from your local radio shack is to follow the traces to a solder point that already exists. Start off by reheating the joint and add some of your own new solder to freshen things up. Then take your pre-tinned wire and solder it onto the pre-existing joint. Those jumpers above and below the A and B buttons would be good places to tap in using this manner. The UDLR is already there just connect where the original board did. The start button has a jumper to tap off from to the left of SW1 and it looks like select goes to the left side of R9.

JKeefe56 · Post by **JKeefe56** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:34 am

Okay sorry to bring up an old post, and one that clearly seems easy to everyone else. But I am doing something very similar. Short verison of what I want to do: Use an NES advantage on an arcade cab control panel. I want to switch the way the buttons are layed out to look more like a standard controller. So I want to solder the buttons to the board and run them up and dock them in plexiglass. I think I have it pretty much figured out, but I'm left with one really (really) dumb question....

The A and B buttons. I have two wires. I run them up to the button where the graphite is on the bottom of the button and make it so it touches both wires when pressed? Or do I have to run the ground (and which one is the ground?) to somewhere where it is "grounded"?

Thanks for any help, sorry if this is frustrating and also sorry for bringing up an old post.

JKeefe56 · Post by **JKeefe56** » Fri Apr 27, 2012 5:52 am

So sorry, I got it! I realized the wires were on the same path. I soldered the wires for the a button, touched them together and watched Mario jump! Thanks for this thread satoshimatrix, infiniteneslives and tepples!!!!